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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. This honour has made the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.